I recently came across this gem in the May 1898 issue of The Delineator, a women’s fashion magazine that ran from 1873-1937.
This issue, which I feel is very timely considering many of us are attending graduations of friends and loved ones or perhaps reflecting on our own graduation(s), is named, the Commencement Number. (Many old periodicals stated the theme of the issue on the cover, “number” referring to the volume.) The magazine features patterns for dresses appropriate for that special day—not just for the graduate, but for teachers and younger sisters too.
From The Delineator, May 1898, p. 516.
From The Delineator, May 1898, p. 515.
Note the pattern numbers–Butterick started this magazine to promote their sewing patterns. From The Delineator, May 1898, p. 583.
I have to say I was surprised Commencement would be the focus of a women’s magazine from 1898, since many women didn’t bother finishing school at that time, if they went at all.
I’ve excerpted some highlights here…oh how they turned a phrase back in the day!
A Day of days to look back upon and inspire by its recollection is commencement day. The tedium and worry of examinations is ended, the hard-earned laurels won; what wonder, then, that the future assumes a roseate hue!
Last time I checked most women in 1898 had the option of either getting married or being a spinster, so I’m not sure where their “hard-earned laurels” were going to take them…
With knowledge as a foundation the affairs of life may be more readily confronted, but the optimistic graduate concerns herself little in serious reflections; her chief consideration on the closing of her school life—paradoxically enough termed commencement day—is her attire.
Oh there we go! It’s all about looking good…maybe things haven’t changed so much…
And this cannot be too simple. Youth needs not the influence of dress and adornment to magnify its natural charms. Who would paint the lily? To adorn the young graduate with finery that attracts attention to itself is, indeed, in questionable taste.
Ok, I’m taking notes: dress plainly.
White is the privilege of girlhood and has thus been selected for the graduate’s gown. Class colors are admissible, but these are represented, when possible, rather in flowers than in materials or trimmings.
Ok, plain white dress, but not too plain, I can have trim in my class colors. Oh wait, and flowers. Or just flowers. Or just trim? I’m confused. Not to mention the fact that these dresses are the farthest thing from plain to me!
From The Delineator, May 1898, p. 585.
Something for the little miss, from The Delineator, May 1898, p. 584.
From The Delineator, May 1898, p. 517.
Ta-da! Me, 88 years after this magazine was published.
Actually I did wear a white dress to my high school commencement, and the style was kind of old-fashioned…but they probably would have considered my white cotton shift an under-garment in 1898.
The article descends into a discussion of fabric choices, many of which I am not familiar with (surah? Brussels or la Tosca net?), and endless details of construction. Construction??? Oh I’m supposed to make a dress like this?! Right.
I can make a mean pillow, I can do slipcovers, but clothing…that takes a bit of finesse…and I can’t imagine tackling a garment of the magnitude presented here! And at the time, it would have been a perfectly normal project to take on…a little something to bang out.
This magazine is almost entirely about sewing your own clothes…hey HGTV House Hunters, that’s why old homes lack walk-in closets with storage systems!
Do you sew? Have you attempted anything as complicated as this? I would love to hear about it! Tell your story in the comments, or share on Facebook!
I always love to read your work!
In 1964 I wore white heels. Very high white heels. Wish I had them today. My dress for high school graduation was a floral cotton print with a full skirt and a deep ‘V’ bodice; in back! My mother purchased it at JL Hudson and I felt pretty in pink. In 7th grade a class called Home Economics was a requirement. I made an apron (!) and a navy corduroy skirt. Both were Home Economics requirements for girls. Yes, Home Ec. Girls only. The boys took a class called Shop. I cannot imagine having had any enthusiasm for a traditional homemaker role at age 17. My plan was to attend Michigan State University. In 1968 I became the first college graduate in my family.
I still have the apron. Vintage!
You might be interested in a book of marriage etiquette given by Hudson’s to brides-to-be in that era. Of course there were no etiquette requirements for the groom! The single rule of etiquette that I recall is to not trim your nails in the presence of your husband. Oh, my!
Ooh I would love to see Hudson’s advise for brides! By the time it was my turn for home ec, the classes were for both genders, and consisted of three courses, cooking, sewing and shop. I was excited about shop, but had mixed results: a shoddy shadow box, and a decent pen set–I sanded and buffed that thing to a glow! I gave to my grandfather.
Love it! The detail back then was incredible and now I see why you wanted that picture! Your dress did tie in with this, like you said “as an undergarment”!
I loved that dress!
I do a lot of sewing but not as much as I used to: tailored suits, fancy dresses, even home decor. I made a gown for a Lewis & Clark Bicentennial event. I took liberty with a zipper, and ran out of time to hem it. (where did you find the issue? I’d like to see it.)
Maryann, I bought the magazine at Brimfield last year. The earlier issues are chock full of sewing and fashion, since Butterick was selling patterns. I actually collect the later issues from the 1930s because I love the covers.
Christina, I didn’t know you had that magazine. I’d like to see it so bring it when you come to visit next month!
I’ll bring it…it’s a little smelly… 🙂
I used to love to sew with my aunts when I was little…they’d help me make basic little wrap around skirts. Nothing in comparison to these dresses. As for what’s white in wardrobe…white tees! That’s about it!